Showing posts with label daikoku. Show all posts
Showing posts with label daikoku. Show all posts

Monday, April 11, 2011

最後・・・じゃないと思う

There are a lot of things I don’t like talking about. Leaving Japan is one of them.

I didn’t write about that in this blog and I don’t plan to, but the short version is that currently I’m on a plane back to America. If I don’t go back, UNC won’t give me my spring semester credits. Rachael and Massiel have already left on the same grounds. We weren’t given a choice so much as an ultimatum, as our programs were suspended and staying in Japan would have cut ties between us and our universities altogether.

And so here I am, typing this blog post on a Delta flight. Incidentally, Grey is sitting about six rows behind me. We didn’t know we were on the same flight home until about two days ago, and even though we couldn’t snag seats next to each other, a stewardess still came up to me with a tray of chicken and the message, “Your friend asked me to give this to you.” I turned around. Grey was looking at me. We fist-bumped in midair. (Why yes, we are those people yelling across rows to talk to each other. Between us and the really obnoxious two-year-old, it’s a pretty lively flight.)

I have about six blog posts in the making, because I have too much to write down and not enough patience to sit and finish one without starting another. The one I’m about to write, though, is pretty important.

This is about our last night at Daikoku.

If you’ve been following my blog you know that we absolutely love that place, but the fact is that a lot goes on behind the scenes that I don’t write down mainly because the feelings don’t translate. If I told you all that we walked into a tachinomi (standing bar, essentially) and found ourselves caught in a whirlwind of the most personable and hilarious boys alive, it wouldn’t sound real, right? But if you were with us you’d get it. We joke all the time about how our lives in Japan have been a shojo manga (and it’s not over yet if we can help it), but that might actually be the truth.

We’ve been to that place at least once every week for the past three months. We were regulars, favorite customers, those crazy loud gaijin, the two Asians and the ones with weird hair colors, those exchange students from Nanzan, and—as Owner called us just last night—‘a group of good kids.’ That’s what we were to them, but Daikoku to us is a mess of adjectives and feelings that we’re not going to be able to place for a couple of weeks yet. Months, maybe. Or maybe we’ll never figure it out and stay in this wonderfully conflicted range of emotions until the day we see those boys again.

I could pick a few out of the staff that mean a lot more to us than the others—a certain one with a jaw and a reputation for being the strangest, yet most endearing, boy; another one who is a box of contradictions and who showed up to A Special Hanami; one more whom we refer to as Mr. Perfect. And then the rest: the one with all the women who turned out to be a nerd, the absolutely insane (but you’d expect it) one, Owner, the one with the fake boob who thinks he’s funny. (And yes, we do know all of their names! But if I listed them this paragraph would be miles long, and then I’d have to get into their birthdays and their hobbies…and I don’t have space for that.)

Daikoku may just be the name of the bar, but collectively it’s a bunch of boys who have the most distinct of personalities. And we’ve come to love those personalities in the most comfortable of ways. They’ve cheered us up with smiles, with single words, with dumb faces. We’ve cried in that bar and they’ve helped us through it (in the dorkiest of ways—let me just say it included red shoes, all the glasses of water ever, an inappropriate question, reassuring words from Mr. Perfect and “Hakuna matata!” from a not-so Mr. Perfect). And when we went there for the last time, they finally let us know that we mean as much to them as they do to us.

So here’s what happened.

As soon as we all found out we had to return back to America, we told each member of Daikoku individually and they each responded with a genuinely downcast expression and some variation of 「寂しくなるね」, which basically means “it’ll be sad.” We had to tell Yukki twice because apparently he didn’t understand the first time or something like that, according to the explanation he gave when I said “I TOLD YOU THIS, YUKKI, LIKE TWO DAYS AGO. YOU SAID IT WOULD BE SAD! DID YOU FORGET ALREADY!?” That poor boy. “I don’t think I understood,” he said. We all sighed. (It’s a good thing he’s cute. And a really good drummer.)

When we told Owner, he said to come on the 6th—Massiel’s last day before her flight.

“We’ll have a going-away party,” he said, and gave us a thumbs-up.

If we had the choice, we wouldn’t have had to have a going-away party until May. But we couldn’t do anything about it at that point—しょうがないor しかたがない, as the Japanese say (it basically means ‘you can’t help it’). So we told him that yes, we would definitely be there on the 6th. I’m pretty sure that even if he hadn’t said anything we would have still come on the 6th.

On that night—a Wednesday—I’d gone back home to change because my shoe had broken earlier that day and I needed to change into a new pair, so the plan was that I’d meet Massiel and Grey at Daikoku (Rachael had already been in China for some time; she was supposed to come back to Nagoya but couldn’t anymore). It had already been a really stressful day; I’d been running around since morning doing last-minute shopping and before that I’d been lying in bed for hours writing letters. I don’t often write letters, so I feel that when I do I have to make them count. Because of all of that—and especially since I was writing the group letter to Daikoku as well as a certain someone’s which I will talk about later—thrown together with the fact that I didn’t get much sleep and that my shoe had broken in the middle of a Tokyu Hands department store where I wandered around for ages trying to find envelopes, I wasn’t having what you would call the best day.

I was on the train to Kanayama, where Daikoku is, when Massiel sent me the following text: “As a last act, Shino has infuriated me.”

Shino is the one we’ve connected with the most. We all went to Nanzan, but it isn’t really about that because he wasn’t around for our semester (he just went back this week). But from the very start he’s been the easiest one to talk to and get along with, and also the easiest to bully into speaking English (“SHINO YOU’RE TAKING THE TOEIC, YOU HAVE TO PRACTICE! SPEAK ENGLISH!”). He was the only one of the whole Daikoku staff we had outside communication with (we didn’t have his phone number but we did have his phone mail, which is the big thing in Japan anyway), and even if he wasn’t the best at replying it didn’t matter because we learned so much about him that way and also discovered that he is possibly the funniest, most adorable (in that ‘oh honey you’re so dumb’ way) person we’ve met in Japan to this day. Despite the fact that we have a language barrier and that American and Japanese humor is very different, we managed to break all that down with Shino. In my letter to him I told him—among other things—that he is my favorite. And it’s the truth.

As soon as I got that text, though, the anxiety pains in my stomach grew worse. Shino has tendencies to make you wonder where the hell his brain is, but he’d never done anything to infuriate one of us before.

I asked her why.

“He left for band practice,” Massiel replied.

My first thought: oh, Shino, why? On our very last day, too! He’d promised us that he would be there on the 6th; the day before when he, Yuuta and the three of us went to an izakaya he’d pointedly said またあした—“see you tomorrow.”

When I walked into Daikoku, Massiel simply looked at me and shook her head.

“He came in,” she said, “did work in the back for 20 minutes and then left for band practice. He told us he’d be back by 10:30.”

It was, at that point, about 8. I didn’t mind waiting, but we had to leave at 10:50 to catch the last train. I was about ready to cry.

And Massiel knew it. “I asked if he would wait for you,” she said. “But he said he couldn’t.” The look on her face could have killed baby birds in mid-flight. “I made him feel really bad. He just put his hand on my shoulder and said sorry, and that he would be back by 10:30.”

“Shino,” I said, and his name is a familiar one on my tongue, but not in the way I said it at that moment. “Shino, really?”

But there was nothing we could do but wait. (And in my case, send him a text that said, ‘BAND PRACTICE!?!?’ in English.)

“I need a drink,” I mumbled, because I did. Luckily Ryou-kun, aka Mr. Perfect (because he is) was working and was in top form with the smiles and took my order for me.

He also reminded us that it was our last time there, which we really did not need at that moment.

“Oh, Ryou-kun,” Massiel groaned. “Please don’t remind us.”

He made the cutest face and took out the Tupperware of raw liver.

It was the third, and the last, time he would ever make us free liver sashimi.

But it wasn’t time to cry yet, because we were just angry at the world and not exactly sad (that would be later; oh, you will see). We had our drinks and stood around talking just like we’ve always done at Daikoku, except this time was different and we didn’t quite know what to do about that.

Finally Massiel suggested that we give Ryou-kun his letter. It was in a big, baby blue manila envelope—the one I had trekked all around Tokyu Hands looking for. He needed a big envelope because we’d made him a present; we took the three songs from his band’s second EP and translated them from Japanese into English. It was HARD, because Japan doesn’t like to use subjects (“What is he talking about? You? Me? The cat?”), and also because apparently Ryou-kun likes to be difficult as we even took some problem lines to our translation teacher who also had no idea what the boy was trying to say. But we did our best.

“This will make us feel better,” Massiel insisted as we crouched under the bar (Grey was also crouching in order to finish a drawing that we couldn’t let any of the Daikoku staff see until she was finished). “Because it’s Ryou-kun.”

“And he’s perfect,” I said. “What did you write in the letter?”

“That we think he’s really talented and one of the kindest people ever, and that whenever we listen to his songs we’ll think of Japan,” she said. “And also, when he plays Tokyo Dome to invite us.”

Because one day that man and his band will make it to Tokyo Dome. They’re already apparently on the Oricon website, which is equivalent to the US Billboard charts. We didn’t know that until he told us, but rest assured that if Japanese people gave hugs we would be climbing over that bar and throwing our arms around him in less than a second.

When he walked by our spot, Massiel called him over and presented the envelope.

“It’s our present to you,” I said, and his face exploded into the most surprised of sparkles.

“For me?” he said, and took the envelope from us. “Can I open it?”

We nodded, because if we’d said anything at that moment it would have been something along the lines of YES RYOU-KUN OPEN IT AND SEE HOW MUCH WE LOVE YOUUUU.

He opened the letter and pulled out the lyric sheets. I told him, as he skimmed them over, that we’d translated the Humanism Portrait EP, and he had the biggest smile on his face.

“Wow,” he said, “I’ll sing it in English next time!”

“Uh,” we said. “Please don’t do that, it sounds much better in Japanese.”

He laughed, then proceeded to take the letter out of the envelope and read it.

As soon as he was done (Japanese people read really fast, as I learned from that night), he looked up at us and thanked us about six times.

Then he looked conflicted.

“Ah, this is bad,” he said, and squeezed his eyes shut. “This is bad!” (Yabai!) “I feel like I’m going to cry….oh no, this is bad. I seriously might cry.”

While my heart was chipping into little pieces, I turned to Massiel. She also looked like she was going to cry.

“But it’s too early,” Ryou-kun said then, and hugged the envelope, lyrics and letter to his chest. “It’s too early to cry.”

“Two more hours,” I said, and pointed to the clock. It was about 9; we were going to leave at 11.

“Yeah, two more hours,” Ryou-kun agreed. Then he gave us one of his perfect grins (we swear they cure the infruenza). “Thank you again!”

He then went into the back to put his envelope away, and I told Massiel 50 times that if Ryou-kun said it was too early to cry, then it was too early to cry. She laughed, so crisis #1 was averted, and then Ryou-kun came back out and told us that he was having a live with his band tomorrow and that he would be mentioning us and how much we moved him by giving him that letter and working so hard on his lyrics.

“I’m really touched,” he said. “I’ll be sure to talk about you, because it’s really sad that you’re leaving…ah, this is bad…but I’m really happy that you gave that to me.”

Again, if Japanese people were okay with hugs we would have been bawling and all over that man in a second. But he was still smiling, which helped a lot.

“But it’s too early to cry!” he finished, and then went back to work.

And Massiel was right. We felt so much better than we had an hour before.

So much better, in fact, that when the lights went out we had no idea what was going on. Usually when that happens someone is having a birthday at Daikoku, or it’s another special occasion like a graduation.

“Whose birthday is it?” Massiel wondered aloud.

“I don’t know…” I said, but I had an inkling and my mind was going wait—could it be? But—!

It was.

Ryou-kun walked out of the back with a cake in his hand. Suddenly, one of those sad power ballads that sing of good-byes came on the loudspeaker. And he was starting a speech.

I can’t remember it to save my life because I was too busy being the most shocked person on that earth. Massiel was crying her eyes out (it clearly wasn’t too early anymore), and Grey was just as surprised as I was. I do remember Ryou-kun saying to everyone else that we were going back to America and that it was honestly going to be lonely without us (that’s the Japanese equivalent of saying ‘we’ll miss you,’; that phrase doesn’t exist in the language). He thanked us about fifty billion times, said a bunch of other words that were just making me tear up, and then—and then—

“This isn’t goodbye,” he said. “It’s ‘see you again.’”

He then produced a lighter, flicked it on and asked me to blow it out. I still don’t know why our see-you-again cake required a “candle,” but I blew it out anyway, and everyone in the bar clapped.

If we could have said anything at that moment it would have been a jumble of tears and nonsense. I think we managed to get out just as many thank yous as Ryou-kun had said, and he and the rest of the staff kept saying no, thank you, and we just kept on with our shocked faces and our exploding hearts.

The cake was strawberry and there was a chocolate placard that had our names written on it in katakana. After all that effort of getting them to remember our names, they actually, properly did.

“I can’t eat this,” Massiel said, as we took 50 pictures of the thing.

Our names are on it,” I said. That was it for me. I didn’t think I could love that place any more than I did, but people surprise you. “They bought this for us. They turned out the lights. There’s sad music playing.”

What none of us said, but were definitely all thinking: they love us.

The next thing to come out of the back room were four bottles of jasmine plum wine, which were handed to us with the explanation that they were a present from Keisuke (Shino’s real name). The truth was, however, that we’d poked and prodded the kid into getting us our own bottles. :)

For the next ten minutes we took pictures of the cake and the wine and with the cake and the wine, and we then asked Ryou-kun (I make it sound like he was the only person working; he wasn’t, the others were just busy with other customers) if we could take a picture with the staff. He said yes, but in a little bit.

“Keisuke’s not here yet,” was the reason.

We all rolled our eyes, but we were now in an uplifted (and yet still so sad) a mood to be angry at him anymore. At that point we just wanted him there.

“Gosh, Keisuke,” Massiel said, “who the hell goes to band practice while this is happening?”

“I GUESS we can wait for Shino,” I said, and Ryou-kun laughed at us.

And then things got even better. We were getting the rest of the letters in order, Grey was still finishing her drawing (caricatures of the whole Daikoku staff), and I didn’t even notice when Shino came back in at 10, thirty minutes earlier than he’d promised. I was leaning against the pillar talking to Grey and Massiel when I turned and saw a jaw (he has a big jaw, y’all; and though I love him to bits it’s the easiest thing to poke fun of).

I waved. It was a reflex from my heart, which had jumped out of my chest and onto the floor. “Hi,” I said (in English) and waved.

He waved back and walked into the back room, then came back out and settled himself on the wall by us.

“Shino,” I said flatly. “BAND PRACTICE?”

“SORRY,” he said, in his accented English that we have gotten so used to hearing. “VERY SORRY.”

We probably gave him grief for about ten minutes, because it was hilarious, and then finally Massiel and I handed him our letters.

Now, about this letter.

Like I said, I don’t handwrite letters often because I find them A Really Big Deal. Handwritten letters mean something; clearly you have to spend a lot of time on them and they have to really be taken care of if you want to keep them forever. And the person writing the letter can’t just type and go; if you have something important to say you have to think about it and how you want to phrase it before it goes down on paper. Because if you mess up, you’re starting over completely.

I spent about an hour on Shino’s letter. I had a lot to say, and it took three pages’ worth of paragraphs in both Japanese and English to get my message across.

He read both of our letters at lightning speed and thanked us, but Massiel and I didn’t believe that he’d actually read the English parts and understood them, mainly because we’d watched his eyes totally skim over the non-Japanese paragraphs.

“No, I read them!” he insisted. “I swear!”

“NO YOU DIDN’T SHINO,” Massiel said, because again: it is our past time to give this boy grief.

“Okay, fine,” I said, and pointed to one of the English paragraphs in my letter. ”What does this say?”

He got that part, at least, and summarized it in Japanese.

“And this?” I pointed to the next paragraph.

He got that one too.

Then to the important part. The sentence was, in neatly written English: “Thank you for everything, Shino. If I had to say whether or not I like you, it would be yes. But that’s a secret, which means YOU DON’T TELL ANYONE” (with ‘you don’t tell anyone’ underlined three times in red).

This was the one he had trouble with. Which was obvious, because had he understood it his reaction would have been much different.

“Thank you for everything,” he mumbled, reading and squinting at the paper. “If I had to say…whether or not….”

At this point he looked up.

“I only get it a little,” he said in Japanese.

“Yeah, I can tell,” I said. If I had felt so inclined (what am I talking about, we all want to do this to him) I would have smacked the boy upside the head.

He blinked. “What does ‘whether or not’ mean?”

Massiel looked at me with this face that clearly said ‘are you going to confess to him in the middle of a crowded bar’ mixed with another expression that read ‘this boy, I will punch him in the face one day.’ I shook my head.

“Nevermind,” I told him. “I’ll explain later.”

From there all I can remember is a lot of laughter, a lot of Shino and the throbbing background feeling that in about an hour I was going to have to say good-bye to this place and these boys and that boy. We all knew it, too. So I’m glad he was there to distract us, and distract us he did, at least for a half hour—we taught him the English phrase ‘the truth hurts,’ which he kept using whenever we made fun of him (i.e. A LOT). When we started gushing to the staff about Shota, whom we have swooned over more than once, we ended up ranking the most beautiful of Daikoku boys.

Shota was clearly at the top.

Ryou-kun was a little under.

And then in my case, the gap between Ryou-kun and Shino was so large Shino’s ranking was on the floor. (Massiel had ranked Yuuta 3rd. No one is surprised.)

But Shino was aghast. “WHY AM I DOWN HERE?” he demanded, and practically hit the floor.

I told the boy to shush.

“OUCH,” Shino said, and grabbed his heart. “THE TRUTH HURTS.”

This adorable thing carried on in a similar vein for all the other times I told him to shush, which was a lot. I also elbowed in him the gut more than once when we were taking a picture and he decided he wanted to make a stupid face.

I wasn’t having that. “SHINO, STOP ITTTTTT.” Elbow, elbow. Jab, jab.

“THE TRUTH HURTS!” And the boy pretended to double over in pain.

Other things: we talked about him visiting America and said he had to come in March for our spring break/his long break or at least during the winter so we could see him; there was a pinky promise involved but I can’t remember what it was about—I highly suspect it was a ploy on Massiel’s part so that he and I could link pinkies. Also, one of the other girl customers stumbled over, clearly drunk, and asked Shino what the word ‘ejaculate’ (in English) meant. (I find that people are always curious of that word no matter what the language is.) Of course the kid had no idea so he asked us very innocently; I pulled it up on my dictionary, showed it to him, and he gave it one look, laughed in that oh my kind of way, shut it and handed it back to me. He then told the customer to ‘stop talking’ and when we asked him what it was in Japanese, plaintively said ‘you don’t need to know that.’

A little before it was time for us to leave, they all went into the back room and started messing with a Polaroid camera. They do this a lot—the general messing-around thing, that is, so we didn’t really pay much attention to it until a few minutes later Ryou-kun, Yuuta and Shino came out of the back holding a stack of Polaroids and some pictures of the staff that they’d taken off their bulletin board.

They were for us, of course, and I’m not sure how I kept myself from crying—oh wait, yes I do. Ryou-kun had spread the Polaroids and pictures out on the counter and asked us to take them home, so we were about to have one of those moments where you realize everything is coming to an end…

…Until Shino butted in.

He sidled over and proceeded to flip each picture upside down so that it was basically a lottery.

“Choice, choice!” he said in English, and then laughed.

I shoved him aside with all the affection I could muster. “SHINO, NO,” I said, and we all kind of batted at him. “SSSSSH!”

“What’s ‘sssh?’ That’s weird,” he whined, now pushed out of the way. “You’re so cold!”

And in the end I ended up taking his Polaroid home with me. (No one is surprised.) I also snagged Shota’s. Good choices, if I do say so myself (even though I haven’t looked at them since then because I just—I can’t, yet). There was also a photo of a bunch of them bowling with ‘Thank you! See you again!’ written on the back, which Grey got though she later gave it to Massiel.

Remember when I said we had to leave at 10:50 so we could catch the last train on time? It was already 10:55 by this time, and Grey decided that she was just going to sleep at Massiel’s house so we didn’t have to leave until later (the ‘last train’ depends on where you’re going to; each destination has a different time and since Grey lives the farthest out hers is the earliest).

So since we had time we bought the staff a round of drinks. I say it like we decided to do this on a whim, but Massiel explained earlier that she had taken out a 10,000 yen bill from the ATM for a reason.

Mostly everyone on the staff had a beer, except for Shino, who asked for a Coke because he was driving—GOOD KID. Except we’d forgotten about that and, once again, gave him grief for working at a bar and yet not ordering alcohol.

“DRIVE,” he explained, and gripped an imaginary steering wheel. “I’m driving home.”

And we were proud of him.

If anything came between the round of drinks and the crying, I can’t remember, but it doesn’t really matter anyway. It can’t compare to the fact that Ryou-kun started tearing up and talking, still, about how much he felt like crying, or that Shino put his fingers between his eyes and made a scrunchy face because he didn’t want to cry.

“What are you doing?” Massiel asked him. Well, I mean. It looked like he had a sinus headache.

“I am very sad,” Shino said in English, and part of me died.

We took pictures with ALL OF THEM: individually, in pairs, in groups and with three different cameras. If they minded, they didn’t say anything (the only thing I pretty much heard during that entire time was Yuppe screaming about furniture in the background. Don’t ask me for an explanation because I’ve been wondering for ages and still don’t know). And if they did mind we probably wouldn’t have stopped.

Then it was time to leave.

Shino, Ryou-kun and Yuuta showed us out. It was fitting, for our last time.

We said a lot of good-byes. We said a lot of good-byes. And we were told to come back someday, to definitely come back someday, because they would be waiting.

Then I told Shino, “Okay, so about that letter.”

He looked at me expectantly.

I bit the bullet. “’Whether or not’ means,” I explained slowly in careful Japanese so as not to totally embarrass myself, “if I had to say I liked you, Shino, it would be yes, I do.”

Later that night I was told he had a look of shock on his face, but I couldn’t really tell because I was too busy trying to keep myself from bursting into fifteen-year-old fireworks. All I remember is him turning a little pink and mumbling something that went into one of my ears and spiraled out the other in a fit of pink smoke.

Massiel had also asked that I confess for her. So I pointed to her—“And Massiel”—and then Yuuta—“Yuuta.” There didn’t really need to be a verb.

Ryou-kun thought we were a mixture of hilarity and cuteness. Shino pointed to him and asked us, “What about Ryou-kun?”

We were too high on adrenaline to give a proper answer, which would have been “All of us, because you are Mr. Perfect.” But we were silent instead, which made him laugh. In the end we told him that it was just fine that he wasn’t any of our 好きな人s (object of affection, basically) because he had a really pretty girlfriend.

And then, after another round of embarrassed good-byes, we walked down that flight of steps for our last time in a long time…

…And Grey and I proceeded to run right into the giant Daikoku sign.

The three of them laughed so hard I’m sure it hurt. It was, in a word, appropriate. As Grey said later, we’d left them as we’d always been around them: drunk (Grey) and in love (Massiel and me).

Then we walked down that familiar strip of sidewalk, past the window of Daikoku, past the hostess bar, past the Family Mart and the CoCo’s Curry and the izakayas, and cried.

But this night isn’t over yet.

We hit the station at around 11:30, which put us at 20 minutes to get to Yagoto before Massiel’s last train. That would have been doable had it not been for the fact that NONE of the trains were going to Yagoto. They were all stopping at stations before that one, which we’d never seen happen before, but then again we’d never been at Kanayama station so late.

The fact remained, though, that we had no idea how to get home.

So we asked Shino to drive us.

Ever since we learned that Shino had a license and a car (which isn’t as common for Japanese students as it is for Americans) we used to joke about the kid driving us home whenever we were tired and didn’t want to walk to the station/take the subway somewhere. It was essentially us whining, “SHINO, DRIVE US HOOOOME.”

And that he did.

After Massiel sent him an e-mail explaining that we were going to miss the last trains and couldn’t get home, he didn’t reply for about ten minutes (causing us to break down into choruses of “SHINO NOW IS NOT THE TIME TO SIMPLY STARE AT YOUR PHONE AND DO NOTHING”) but when he did it was a very punctual, “Okay, I understand! Give me your phone number!”

I was on the other side of the platform trying to figure out if I could somehow make it back to my dorm when Grey called me to tell me Massiel was on the phone with Shino and that he was going to drive us home.

“Are you serious?” My heart was in my throat.

“We think so,” she said, and I forgot all about trains and getting home. I sprinted off the platform.

When I found the two of them, Massiel was on the phone with Shino telling him we couldn’t get home. After she hung up, she looked at me and said he would pick us up from the station.

I wasn’t sure this was really happening. In fact, I would be thinking that for the entire night and most of the next day. I was also wondering how I was going to sanely get into Shino’s car after I had confessed to him not even an hour before this moment.

We ambled outside to the back of the station, not really sure where he was going to pick us up or where he was going to take us—initially Massiel had just said Yagoto, but by that time the trains had stopped running altogether. It was close to midnight. We were trapped.

That is, until the black Toyota Porte rolled up and honked its horn at us.

“Is that him?” I was experiencing a wide range of emotions, most of which made me want to throw myself on the kid in pure gratitude. Or, alternatively, just throw up. “Did he just honk at us? Is that a Toyota Porte?”

“That’s his momma’s car,” Grey said, and we all agreed.

He pulled up in front of the taxis and we began apologizing even before the door had slid open. If I had ever said such a long verse of ‘sorrysorrysorrysorry’ before in my life, not including the Super Junior song, I didn’t remember it. We were a pack of three girls bowing to the open door of a Toyota Porte, and it must have been the most amusing thing to Shino, because he laughed at us.

But then he was also the kindest person on the earth at that moment. “It’s perfectly fine,” he said. “Get in.”

Massiel made to get in the front seat.

“Get in the back,” I mumbled in what I hoped was unintelligible English to non-native speakers.

She raised her eyebrows at me. “You sure?”

“Yessss,” I hissed behind my circle scarf. It was wound over my mouth and it would stay that way for the next hour until I got home. “Get in the back.”

We kept on with the “Shino, we’re so sorry!”s and “Thank you so much”s for the next fifteen minutes and embarrassed the boy so much that he could only shake his head and tell us it was fine, just fine, that he had left home to come pick us up at Kanayama station. I didn’t know this until later, but the fact that he’d already gotten home and then left to come pick us up in our time of trouble actually almost made me cry. I owe him so much. We all do.

Anyway, so we piled in and he looked at me and asked if this was the first time we’d ridden in a car since we’d been in Japan.

“No,” I said, voice still muffled behind my scarf.

If he thought the situation was awkward, he didn’t let on. He was himself. And I liked it that way.

He said that for the meantime he would drive us to Yagoto, which ended up being a bold-faced lie because he drove me right to the door of my dorm and then all the way to Toyota—which is almost an hour from Nagoya—to drop off Massiel and Grey. If it bothered him at any time that he had to tow around three girls in his car to farthest reaches of the city, he didn’t say a word and it didn’t show on his face, either. He was a perfect darling about it and kept reassuring us that it was ぜんぜん大丈夫—absolutely fine.

A number of amusing things happened on that drive, including how he kept drumming his legs off-sync to the music (which was, surprisingly, nice acoustic guitar—until I left, when it apparently turned to really bad punk) and then telling us that he played the “elec guitar and bass.” He also got lost trying to find my dorm no thanks to our ridiculous directions, so we drove around for 20 minutes in circles since he pulled the I Am a Man and Don’t Need a GPS front.

When he dropped me off I said thank you for what must have been the thousandth time that night and sprinted upstairs—crying, because I couldn’t believe that had actually happened and because it was the very first and the very last time it ever would.

But we won’t get into that.

Massiel kept texting me after that, telling me that Shino had yelled “TOO YOUNG!” when she informed him that her high school-age host sister had a crush on him. He also apparently showed her letter to his mother, who complimented Massiel’s handwriting, though we have no idea if he showed her mine (I would have been the most embarrassed if he had. It was three pages long! Of complete mush!).

I texted him that night asking that he please not throw away my letter.

His reply—a full 24 hours late, which is usual for him but absolutely nerve-wracking to me—was, in Japanese: “I’ll never, ever throw it away!”

I read that text at least ten times and did not manage to keep myself from tearing up even once.

(Also, in response to the part of my text that read ‘I’ll send you a present when I get back to America!’, he’d written, ‘I’M WAITING.’ Oh, Shino, one day I will punch you in the face out of sheer affection.)


















From Daikoku. And rest assured that we will see you again. ♥

絶対日本に帰るよ!

Thursday, March 10, 2011

バレンタインの日

It started out as a joke.

The first time we went to Daikoku and thus sold our souls to a bunch of wonderful boys (some of whom, by the way, we now have outside-of-work correspondence with!), one of us brought up the idea that we could give them chocolate for Valentine's Day. That was in January, and Feburary the 14th seemed so far away that we dove into that fantasy like nobody's business. After all, it wasn't like we were actually going to go through with it. For the rest of the month it became another one of our too-numerous inside jokes: remember that time we said we were going to give chocolate to Daikoku on Valentine's Day? We gave the idea sparkles, put a ring on it, drove it home and made it dinner, painted it with elaborate pastry ideas and sprinkles and letters full of why you guys so awesome though?s.

Nobody actually thought we were going to go through with it (aloud, anyway).

But by the time Valentine's Day actually rolled around, it wasn't so much of a joke anymore, and on the morning of that Monday--thank goodness we were still on February break--we trooped to the sticks of Nagoya, also known as Toyota (yes, everyone! It's a real city!), to make Valentine's Day pastries...for a bunch of waiters (though I hesitate to call them that) who didn't know what hit them when the four of us walked into their bar/izakaya/restaurant-thing that first day. To be fair, we didn't know either. But this study abroad experience wouldn't be the same without them, that's for sure.

Anyway--it's not mushy time yet. First, an explanation of Valentine's Day in Japan, told through a comparison of Valentine's Day in America.

WHEN IT'S VALENTINE'S DAY AND YOU'RE:

- a single woman in America, you go about your normal day. Or you have a little rant about how ridiculous this so-called "holiday" is. Or you go out with your girls and make fun of all the couples having a romantic dinner/walking around being all snuggly and cute. Or you buy chocolate for yourself, eat all of it in one sitting, feel sick and curse February the 14th.
- a single man in America, you--well, I don't actually know. Most of the guys I know wake up and don't even realize it's Valentine's Day.
- dating in America, you have a nice day with your significant other doing whatever makes the both of you happy, like endless games of Scrabble (hey, I'd be thrilled).

- a single woman in Japan, you feverishly make chocolates--yes, you MAKE chocolates--or pastries or cake or cookies or some kind of delicious sweet thing either the day of Valentine's Day or a couple of days before. The entire time, you practically sweat sparkle-filled, manga-flower vibes of nervousness and thoughts of OH MY GOD WILL HE ACCEPT MY FEELINGS? If you're a single woman making romantic chocolate for the man of your dreams/that kid next to you in math class you draw comics about, you're not just making chocolate for the hell of it. In Japan, Valentine's Day is a day for women to give their feelings away in a box tied with a ribbon. The department stores are practically OVERFLOWING with gourmet chocolates, gift ideas, gift boxes and chocolate-making materials; suddenly everyone remembers their favorite anime/manga/drama scene where the heroine, blushing furiously, thrusts a box of chocolate in the face of the boy she likes and says, "Please accept this!" Japan took Valentine's Day and marketed it to women like never before. If you try to escape it, there will be consequences.

(On the other hand, it's also a custom to give your guy friends chocolate--aka, non-romantic chocolate. That's called ぎり/giri chocolate, and at the very basic level it means 'obligation chocolate.' For giri, you make chocolate because you want to, and you give it to whomever you want to, even your own girl friends. There's no blushing and no "please accept this!"--unless you're us.)
- a single man in Japan, you eat chocolate (if you get any) and start thinking about White Day, which is exactly a month after Valentine's--March 14--and it's when the guy gives chocolate/a present back to the girl if he accepts her feelings (or if he just wants to in the case of giri, because they're friends/it's the nice thing to do/why not). The department stores have been advertising White Day since the end of February, and there's not only an impressive array of chocolate that I could only afford if I sold my leg, but there are also stuffed animals! I mean, I was excited about it...
- dating in Japan, you parade your love to the masses by strutting about in public holding hands and walking beside each other attached at the hip. Here, that's practically PDA.

Did you get all of that? There will be a test.

For Daikoku we decided to go with the whole 'this is giri, you guys are cool, thanks for always being awesome! This is how gaijin make friends!' kind of thing (it actually said that in our letter). I mean, maybe there's one specific staff member I would have liked to give real chocolate to, but we're not going to get into that now. Or any other day, actually. Let me pine in peace.

Our menu included the following: orange sugar drop donuts and brownies, to be put in cute pink baggies bought at the hundred yen store (we were going to go with boxes at first, but when I got there each box had to be bought individually and we needed 14 of them--I love those guys, but I am a poor ryugakusei [exchange student] and do not have 1400 yen to spend on boxes the size of my palm).

But as these things go, luck was not entirely on our side.

First off, Massiel had come down with some strange sinus/infruenza-like illness the day before and by the sheer power of Sports Drink (no really, her host mom handed her a huge bottle with a label that said Sports Drink) and love for Daikoku, she managed to get rid of the fever. She was still somewhat sick, though, and had to wear a mask throughout the pastry-making session. Secondly, the brownies WOULD NOT COOK THROUGH no matter how long we kept them in the oven. The top would burn but the middle would be mush. :( The donuts also weren't cooking correctly--the oil kept heating up too fast and we would get black drop donuts with gushy orange insides. Not exactly appetizing. And to top it all off, it started raining outside, huge snowy-like chunks of freezing cold water.

But time does great things. We managed to get a batch of brownies that were cooked through (though we had to slice off the top) and also had reinforcement brownies that Rachael had brought (sssh, don't tell. They were still handmade; it's okay!). The orange drop donuts finally started doing what I wanted them to, and we had enough batter left over to make a nice amount. And Massiel's illness did not rear its ugly head again (oh, the power of love and Sports Drink).

After a walk to the station in the snowy rain and discovering that, because it had gotten wet, the bag we'd put the pastries in had a small tear in it, we finally got on the train to Kanayama....

...As nervous wrecks. It didn't start that way, but by the time we were only a couple of stops away I was getting pretty anxious, and Grey was too. Massiel had been that way from the start, and Rachael told us en route that we were making her nervous. There wasn't really anything to be nervous about--either they took what we had to give them or didn't. But we'd already dug ourselves into a big, big hole of what-ifs that we couldn't climb out of it anymore, and at the same time, we'd already come so far that we couldn't go back.

In the end, we arrived at Daikoku with a wet, torn (though still mostly sturdy) bag full of pastries. We'd battled snow-rain and the freezing cold and too many mishaps, but we were there.

I can't remember if there was anyone greeting in front. At any case, we walked in, said our hellos, and decided that we were going to give them the goods later....

...at the appropriate time...

...whenever that time was.

I mean sure, we could have thrust the bag at Ryou-kun (who was working that day and took our first order) and been like, "HERE, CHOCOLATES! TAKE THEM!" But that would have required guts, which we didn't really have at the time. So we ordered our drinks and then pouted at each other, because apparently pouting gives answers.

As we were pouting, I started reading the boards they have on the wall. Not the ones with the Daikoku story on it, but the ones with the specials of the day and the staff recommendations. Underneath the specials, there was a little drawing of a pig as cupid and then a small, almost unnoticeable note:

チョコください!

Which means choco kudasai or 'give us chocolate, please.'

THEY HAD BASICALLY GIVEN US AN IN. Immediately the pouts were replaced with sounds of enlightenment (which in our case are usually things along the lines of "Why so genius though?" and "OH MY GOD"), because Daikoku hadn't just made things easier for us--they'd given themselves away. Oh, you want chocolate? We'll give you chocolate. We got it right here.

At that moment Ryou-kun came over with a plate of liver sashimi (sliced, raw liver--I know that sounds gross, but it's actually delicious), holds a finger to his lips and says, "Ssssh!" Free food. Oh, that man. I adore him.

And then I go, "So, you know how on that board it says you want chocolate...?"

He says yes. I mean, if he hadn't--but.

"Well, we actually made chocolate for you..."

And I hand him the bag.

He was the cutest, most surprised person on the earth at that moment. So was Yuuta in the background. It was a chorus of "Ehhhhhhh!?"s and "Oh wow, really?"s and general disbelief. Seriously though, it wasn't like we'd given them phantom pastries--they existed. The bag was in Ryou-kun's hands. We were fifteen year old girls again, suddenly, and asking boys our age (because we discovered that they are!) to accept our feelings for them even though technically it was giri.

And then--oh. And then Ryou-kun turns around, pumps his fist in the air and yells, "WE GOT CHOCOLATE!!!!!!"

Cue a round of applause, more "Ehhhhh!?"s, every one of the staff members thanking us and the entire bar turning round to stare at the four gaijin who'd made the staff members of Daikoku pastries for Valentine's Day.

We exploded.

"I'm just gonna, uh," I said, and tried to pick up another piece of sashimi but physically just could not, "eat. Wait--I can't."

"Well, I'm gonna eat," Rachael said, but only because she couldn't bring herself to face the applause from random strangers.

"Did we just do that?" someone else said.

"Yeah. That happened."

Story of our lives. Did that just--? Yeah. It happened.

We'd also included a letter in our package that had a drawing of us and then our names because, if you can believe it, they didn't know them. We knew theirs, and their ages, and everything else about them thanks to profiles put up in the bathroom (don't ask--Owner's fault), but they didn't know anything about us.

So after the applause fiasco and outing ourselves as Those Girls, Ryou-kun came over a little later while Massiel is in the bathroom and said, all sing-song, "I know your names!"

We gave him a little test.

"Melissa-chan," he said. (I died.)

"Rachael," he continued.

"Grey-san." (Or -chan. Some suffix. We couldn't tell.)

"And...Ma-massiel?"

He struggled a little bit with hers, but got it in the end. A+, Ryou-kun!

Then Owner came over, asked us if the pastries were handmade, and blew us all kisses when we said yes. That man.

Also, Yuichi cooking at the grill, then looking up at us with the hugest grin to show off his English skills: "I love you."

We'd met him for the first time that night. Daikoku, you employ the most charming of boys.

At the end of the night, Ryou-kun showed us to the door (they always do that) and bowed a full 90 degrees to show his gratitude. We were basically humbled to the point where we were like, "NO, GET UP, THAT'S TOO DEEP A BOW, WE JUST MADE YOU CHOCOLATE, IT'S NO BIG DEAL!"

Then we asked him if we were allowed to call him Ryou-kun.

"Of course," he said, smiling. "But...how do you know our names?"

Everyone sighed.

"They're in the bathroom," I said, and he proceeded to laugh. Like he'd forgotten. I mean, I would remember if my boss posted my biography on a wall in the bathroom, but still....also, Yuuta told us everyone's name on the very first day.

"Call us all by our first names!" he said. "If you want anything, yell my name across the room!"

And then he waved us off (with a "じゃ、また!" which is how you'd say "see you next time!" to your friends) and we proceeded to run down the stairs and shriek our happiness down the sidewalks of Kanayama.

Can you blame us? (The answer, in fact, is no.)

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures from this night except for when we were making the pastries, and those are relatively boring because they're just--batter and orange zest in bowls and so on. So you're free to imagine your own visuals. Just don't forget to add the sparkles.

(As a post-note: the ones who weren't working that night thanked us the next time we came. Except for one, who needed a little prodding, but that's a story not worth my writing down. Secondly, we are now on a first-name basis with all of the boys, including Owner, who especially likes to call Rachael's name from across the room. And besides that, we've established some outside-of-work communication and even plans. The Daikoku Saga continues...)

Thursday, January 27, 2011

大黒の話

THE DAIKOKU STORY

Because this is actually a saga of events and I'm tired of doing day-by-day. Also, the truth is that Daikoku consists of at least 57% of the rest of my day-to-day accounts. You will see why in a moment. After you see why, you may want to get up to grab a snack. Or just leave this for another day entirely when you have four hours of your life free, because this saga is long and action-packed. And full of meat.

INTRODUCTION

Daikoku is a meat restaurant in Kanayama. Specifically it is a 豚肉/ぶたにく/pork restaurant, but it's actually more like a pork bar/izakaya because there are no chairs. And it's mainly bar food, because the pork is cut up into choice pieces (cheek, tongue, stomach, intestines, ANY PART OF THE PIG YOU DESIRE) and then grilled on sticks. So, kind of like yakitori but not chicken. They also have beef, I believe, and things that go with alcohol like edamame. And tomatoes, apparently. And tofu. And cabbage. (The cabbage is actually delicious.)

We go to Daikoku every Wednesday and Saturday. It is, it has to be said, our go-to hang out place, and the first time we went (when we were lured in by Mako [see below]) we actually tried to look for another place because of Gray's vegetarianism, but in the end Massiel and I have guilt complexes. The only reason we're not there all the time is because we have to order food and, judging from the way our bills have increased during each visit, we have no self-control when it comes to limiting our orders. The first time we went our bill was about 7000 yen for the four of us. The second time, it was around 11,000. And the third? 13,000. YES, WE ARE BROKE COLLEGE STUDENTS (IN JAPAN!) AND THIS IS A PROBLEM. :( Although the fourth time (just now, actually) we managed to keep it down to 5000 yen because a) Rachael wasn't with us because she went skiing with her host family for the weekend and b) we actually planned our orders beforehand so we'd know exactly what to get.

It is our favorite restaurant, if you haven't guessed. Our goal is to become regulars (we're well on our way) and also to establish enough rapport to, oh I don't know, hang out with them when they're not at work. Because besides the fact that this restaurant sells DELICIOUS meat, the guys that work there? Are absolutely precious. (And attractive.) Scroll down for an explanation of that.

So no matter what, every Saturday and Wednesday night we take the subway into Kanayama and walk to Daikoku. Usually one of the guys is out trying to coax customers in--except I don't see why they need to, because it's usually always packed--and the past few times we've been there, they've just been like, "'Oh hey, you're back?" Of course we are back. WE LOVE YOU AND YOUR FOOD. Though in reality we're just like, yeah. Hai. We're back.

We have learned many things from Daikoku adventures thus far:

1. Cultural notes, because we just had to know why this one plum wine is called "Obaa-chan's plum wine" (Grandma's plum wine). It's because grandmothers in Japan usually make their own plum wine, apparently.
2. Kanji. We asked the waiter. We can now recognize the kanji for 'salt'! YAY.
3. How to budget. Because if you don't plan your budget around Daikoku, you'll be flat broke in a day. (Story of our lives.)
4. Japanese. Of course. If we're not babbling incoherent Japanese to the waiters/trying to figure out what to say to them in incoherent babble, they're talking to us. And we don't mind. ♥
5. How to overcome language barriers and flops. Infamously, Massiel wanted to ask one of the waiters what time the place opened. She ended up phrasing the question as "from how long are you open?" Poor boy didn't know what to do. Also, "Owari onegaishimasu." Which technically means "finish, please."
6. How to use our peripheral vision to the best extent. ...What?
7. I can eat 30 sticks of meat. No surprise there to those of you that know me. However, 30 sticks of meat can NEVER HAPPEN AGAIN because MY MONEY. MY MONEY. WHERE DID IT GO!?

WHO WORKS AT DAIKOKU?/THE CAST OF CHARACTERS

9 wonderfully adorable guys work at Daikoku. We know 8 of them and have yet to see the last, though we are very intrigued.

First of all, a disclaimer: we're not actually (very) creepy. The guys have chalkboards set up around the restaurant called Daikoku no Kodawari, which is hard to translate but basically means "The Meaning of Daikoku." It lists their names, their "titles" (we have no idea of the stories behind any of them, but as an example, Ryou-kun is "The Good Singer" and Yuuta is "The Gang Leader") and then goes on to say how Daikoku got started. We can't read some of the kanji, but from what we can understand, it has been their dream to start this restaurant, and they love seeing everyone's smiling faces. HOW CUTE IS THAT? The answer is "extremely," in case you didn't know. In fact, 65% of the reason we love Daikoku is because we're fascinated with the guys who work there and started it. They're all obviously best friends, this is their dream and they're good at what they do--and I don't just mean grilling meat. In all seriousness, their smiling faces make us happy. And I know that sounds cheesy, but it's the truth.

DAIKOKU CAST (real name first, our nickname second):

1. Yuppe, or Mullet Guy
2. Yukkun, or Chubby, Happy Owner (or simply Chubby or Owner)
3. Yuuta, or Yeppo/Taemin/Massiel's (he is the main reason we started going back)
4. Ryou-kun, or Tall Guy
5. Yuki, or Tall 2 Tall Harder
6. Mako, or Greeter (who has the scrunchiest, most adorable smile ever and won't ever let us forget it)
7. New Fatty (we don't actually know his name)
8. Shino, or Smuggie (because he looks cocky ALL THE TIME. Also, he goes to Nanzan, too! Though we have yet to actually see him there.)

We're not positive on their ages and we're not going to dwell on it too much, but with the exception of Yuppe and Yukkun, they're all relatively youngish. Shino is 20 or 21, because he's a second-year at Nanzan. We don't know about anyone else, though. In fact, the rumor among us is that Yuuta is married with 4 kids. And that's hilarious, but you have to see him to understand why.

OUR JOURNEY: BECOMING REGULARS

One day we're going to walk in and they're going to know exactly who we are.

OH WAIT THAT'S ALREADY HAPPENED.

They know us. It's hard not to, because the first time we went Massiel was so intrigued (a.k.a. going ridiculously insane in the best of ways) over how Yuuta looks exactly like Taemin from SHINee, so we took a picture with the staff (and then she cried out of sheer happiness). But really, we go twice a week as crazy gaijin exchange students into a meat izakaya surrounded mainly by salarymen, but we know they talk about us (and write about us in their diaries...sorry, inside joke). When we walked in today it was the first time we met Shino, and immediately Ryou-kun went over to do whisper-whisper and tell him that we were the Nanzan girls. We were THOSE GIRLS. And lo and behold, Shino comes over and asks if we go to Nanzan.

What's hilarious is that they know us as 4, so when we went today as 3 they were kind of confused. Had to do a double-take, you know.

But we've already gotten so far that today Ryou-kun gave us free food! :) It was raw liver sashimi. And it was actually good.

THE DAIKOKU STORY: TO BE CONTINUED...

AND NOW: PICTURES.

Because I know that's all you're here for. No captions, because the contents are kind of obvious?